Saturday, November 17, 2007

Winter Kicking In

I genuinely long to be one of those people who awakens early in the morning, ready to embrace the day ahead, full of life, awareness and enthusiasm. I'm a bit of a bastard first thing and I can't think with any sort of clarity until I've had strong coffee, the papers and cigarettes. It is awful - disempowering - to live a life dependent on such things. My brain truly starts to kick into gear only during the evening, which is when I read, attempt to jot down thoughts and experience, and just generally try to enjoy the silence and the consciousness night brings.

It's been a very strange couple of months. People breaking up all over the place, people breaking down, changes in the workplace and among it all seeing the best and the worst of humanity on film, images and words from Burma. People being buried, people getting married. Hearing of beautiful lives snuffed out far too early with drugs and alcohol. And the winter is kicking in.

In my heart of hearts I still long for a peaceful life and a simple life. I love words, I love taking pictures, I love my guitar, and I love my family and friends. I'm even learning to love the people I looked upon for some time with a great deal of suspicion. It's not easy though, to live a peaceful and simple life.

I'm just about about to move into a flatshare with some rather colourful characters whom I've known for some time. We have nothing in common apart from knowing each other and I feel my life is at the beginning of yet another colourful chapter. Sometimes I feel like I'm in the middle of a David Lynch film. Or something by Woody Allen. I feel the future is Fellini. Hopefully the next few months will be slightly less turbulent than the last. I'm learning not to take things for granted.

Montpellier You Make Me Smile

I flew to Montpellier a couple of weeks ago at the invitation of a great friend who sensed my irritation and despair at life in the lunatic asylum (Totnes). It was a very good move, despite my rather outsize carbon footprint. With my guitar and my camera, good friends, great food and plenty of fun, it was just what I needed. Montpellier is a student town in the south of France, tall and elegant with sprawling pavement cafes and ambient bars. The more time I spend in France, I like it more and more. My French is slowly improving, and I'll go anywhere where you can pick up a decent bottle of red wine for less than five euros.

I stayed in a friends apartment on the third floor of an ageing block which overlooked the red tiled decaying rooftops of the town centre, watching the sky turn salmon pink with the setting sun. Here I strummed my guitar, leaving behind the increasing anxiety of life in the open hospital (Totnes). Mornings - or in my case early afternoons - were spent lounging about the Petit Nice cafe smoking and sipping cafe creme, watching Montpellier go by and photographing people hidden behind copies of Le Monde. Montpellier is such a great place to photograph - especially in black and white - as some of the older lanes of town are warren like and twisting, so the light cuts into the street at beautiful angles. Endless pairs of legs scissor past and people become silhouetted by the rays of light. On my last night in Montpellier my camera was nicked and I sulked for a bit but hey, I have such a blessed existence.

On my way to Bergerac for my flight home I got a lift with an Algerian family who shared their tuna tomato baguettes with me. Squashed into the back seat I sat, as the driver drove like a fucking maniac for four hours up to Bordeaux. There I spent a night before waking at 7am to get the 8.30am train to Bergerac, which didn't exist. I had to wait a few hours. It was cutting it fine. I got coffee and toast and played guitar outside a cafe to kill some time. Then got a train and then a cab which got me to the airport just in time to fly back home.

Sunday, November 11, 2007

Burma: Progress?

Suu Kyi not yet released from house arrest but "allowed" to meet members of her party, the National League for Democracy (NLD) last week at a state owned guesthouse in Rangoon. Last Friday she met General Aung Kyi, the junta's newly appointed Minister for Relations.

Yesterday Suu Kyi was given front page news in the state-run press. The New Light of Myanmar carried a full colour photograph of Aung San Suu Kyi and General Aung Kyi with a story which apparently hinted that the junta were "putting energy" into democratic reform. This is indicative of some sort of progress. Suu Kyi has appeared three times in the last month in state controlled media, which previously has refused to print her photograph or even her name.

UN Special Envoy Ibrahim Gambari was also permitted to meet The Lady last week. Gambari left Burma carrying a statement by Aung San Suu Kyi, which he read at press conference in Singapore:

"I wish to thank all those who have stood by my side all this time, both inside and outside my country. I am also grateful to the Secretary-General of the United Nations, Mr. Ban Ki-moon, for his unwavering support for the cause of national reconciliation, democracy and human rights in my country.


"I welcome the appointment on 8 October of Minister Aung Kyi as minister for relations. Our first meeting on 25 October was constructive and I look forward to further regular discussions. I expect that this phase of preliminary consultations will conclude soon so that a meaningful and timebound dialogue with the SPDC leadership can start as early as possible.

"In the interest of the nation, I stand ready to cooperate with the government in order to make this process of dialogue a success and welcome the necessary good offices role of the United Nations to help facilitate our efforts in this regard.

"In full awareness of the essential role of political parties in democratic societies, in deep appreciation of the sacrifices of the members of my party and in my position as General Secretary, I will be guided by the policies and wishes of the National League for Democracy. However, in this time of vital need for democratic solidarity and national unity, it is my duty to give constant and serious considerations to the interests and opinions of as broad a range of political organizations and forces as possible, in particular those of our ethnic nationality races.

"To that end, I am committed to pursue the path of dialogue constructively and invite the government and all relevant parties to join me in this spirit.

"I believe that stability, prosperity and democracy for my country, living at peace with itself and with full respect for human rights, offers the best prospect for my country to fully contribute to the development and stability of the region in close partnership with its neighbors and fellow ASEAN members, and to play a positive role as a respected member of the international community."

So, let's wait and see. If this government is serious about democratic reform the first step must be the unconditional release of Daw Aung San Suu Kyi and all political prisoners of Burma. Those of us who have watched Burma in recent years know how untrustworthy the junta can be. They have in the past failed continually in every sense to behave with any decency whatsoever. I hope we see the fruits of success this time around.